![]() ![]() (when traveling the pin on the side should be fully forward). The harder the brakes are applied the further back it will slide. Unfortunately I don't have immediate access to the trailer, it's a few hours from where I am right now so I have to take notes and try and get it apart when I can get back up there. When you apply brakes the trailer will surge forward and that pin you see will slide rearward. Important:As with all types of wheels it is necessary to re-torque the lug nuts after the first 25 miles and at every 100 mile. Tighten your lugs in a criss-cross pattern for best and equal torque distribution. If you have any other ideas I would like to hear them. A: When tightening your lug nuts on your trailer wheels, the recommended torque for each lug nut is 115 +/- 2 ft/lbs (foot pounds). I don't think the brakes are holding the drum cause it spins with no drag, in fact they are probably way out of adjustment.Like I said, if it's the nut and cotter key I can't get that cotter key out without removing the chrome sleeve first.Thanks for the help. There is a snap ring on top keeping it installed and then a snap under the spring which I thought would allow the drum assmebly to pull off of the spindle when it was removed. The housing I'm referring to is what holds the cap that has the grease fitting on it and it's got a spring behind it. ![]() The housing that surrounds the hub was about 1.5" deep and I couldn't get in there to pull the cotter key out, otherwise I would have removed the nut on the spindle and pulled it off.Is it possible that this housing pulls off first and then I can access the cotter key?I've done brakes on many cars and trucks and the only difference here is that the chrome housing is over the cotter key and nut so I can't get to them. Tommays, I didn't remove the buddy bearing cause I wasn't able to get the cotter key out. Re: Brake drum removal with buddy bearing? maproy99, The brakes are 'disabled'/locked out when the tow vehicle is placed in reverse. ![]()
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